Rolling Horse

The Rolling Horse roughly circumnavigates the Grand Hogback – a 90-mile-long spine of upturned rock marking the geologic meeting of the Southern Rockies with the Colorado Plateau. The route seeks to reveal the intimate connections between the many varied landscapes once stewarded by the Nuche (Ute people); specifically, those whose ancestors hunted amongst the high places we now know as the Elks, Raggeds, Flattops and Roan; and gathered along the banks of the Roaring Fork, Crystal, Colorado, and White Rivers.

The route was designed with particular attention to the region’s rich natural and human history. Much of it utilizes backcountry roads that either follow, or approximate, the original migratory and trade routes of the Ute ancestors. Other portions acknowledge the region’s more recent ranching and mining history. Yet others appreciate the region’s long-standing commitment to land conservation.

From recreational meccas like Aspen and Crested Butte, to the working lands of Rifle and Meeker, the route traverses a great diversity of people, places, and land use ideologies. Yet one important people, the first to live in this place, remain largely absent from its midst. With the passage of many generations since their violent expulsion from northwestern Colorado, the descendants of the White River Utes continue to face physical separation from the land their ancestors once roamed freely. Furthering this disconnection is that the land is now deeply divided by highways, fences, and laws that make it difficult (sometimes impossible) to traverse from one place to another. Despite these barriers, much of the land remains open to the public; if one knows where, and how, to go.

The Rolling Horse route is a suggested ‘where’ and ‘how’ for reconnecting – as one whole human experience – the landscape it traverses. It is not the only ‘where’ and ‘how.’ There are other ways to connect these places. Some are quicker and easier. The Rolling Horse prioritizes history and meaning over speed and ease. The route often takes the more difficult path to the higher ground, the clearer view, and the deeper memory.

There is a reason the route starts in Carbondale, Colorado. In 2014, a Town of Carbondale park was renamed from Bull Pasture Park to Nuche Park. The gesture was meant to recognize those displaced from the Roaring Fork Valley when white settlers and miners arrived. Members of the ranching family, who had originally donated the small park to the town, were amongst the first to sign the petition. It read in part: “We are proud of our ranching heritage but would like to take our history back another 9,000 years by acknowledging the indigenous people who came before. The park would be Nuche-Mu-Gu-Avatum-Ada’he, Nuche for ‘the people’s place of the heart,’ a name given to the valley by the Nuche elders Roland McCook and Clifford Duncan. We would call the park Nuche Park.” Nuche Park lies along the banks of the Crystal River on the southern edge of town. The bosom of a mountain known as Sopris to some, ‘the Mother’ to others, fills the southern sky. Eagles nest nearby. It is a fine place to start a journey of reconnection.

Let there be no confusion. This is a mountain bike ride, NOT a gravel bike ride. At ~470 miles, with an elevation gain approaching 60,000 feet, and many miles spent well above 10,000 feet of altitude, this route is very difficult, perhaps just slightly easier than the storied Colorado Trail. Though the route features many miles of smooth gravel and dirt, a mountain bike with front suspension, and a minimum tire size of 2.3”, is highly recommended. There are several steep, and lengthy, hike-a-bikes – each to worthy rewards. Much of the singletrack (there are ~70 miles of it) is quite steep and rough. Much of the route’s ~200 miles of double-track is even steeper and rougher. High-elevation snowpack is the main limiting factor dictating the route’s riding season. Most years, most of the route is snow-free by mid-July and may remain passable until mid-October. The ‘best’ times to ride the route are July (maximizes natural water sources and wildflower viewing) and late September to early October (fall foliage season).

Food resupply is plentiful with seven sizeable towns, and several other food possibilities directly on, or a few miles off, the route. Camping options are abundant throughout the public lands the route traverses. There are two extended sections of private land on the western half of the route where camping is not allowed or extremely limited. Those are noted on the GPS track with alternatives listed. Water availability ranges from plentiful and clear on the eastern half of the route to quite limited and dirty on the western half. A few sections require significant water carries, even along the eastern half of the route where it traverses extended sections of ridgeline with limited water sources. It may be necessary to carry as much as 9 or 10L of water capacity for a few sections during the driest and hottest parts of the summer. Proper water planning is critical to completing the route.

Those seeking a quicker, and/or somewhat less arduous experience may be interested to know that several (but not all) of the most difficult sections can be easily bypassed using semi-adjacent sections of paved/gravel trails and roads (noted on the GPS track).

Why Rolling Horse?
The horse was amongst the earliest mammals to walk this landscape. The first horse appeared in North America about 4 million years ago. Its ability to migrate great distances over challenging terrain made it a very successful species. As it evolved, its range expanded – first to South America, followed by Asia, Europe, and Africa. Then, around 10,000 years ago, most of North America’s large mammals – including the horse – became extinct. Theories suggest these events were caused by a combination of climate change (the last ice age was just ending) and the arrival of human hunting practices on the continent. Regardless of the cause, the fossil record shows the early peoples of the Americas lived in the absence of horses for many thousands of years.

According to Ute elders, their ancestors began to master the horse as early as 1587; utilizing them for hunting, warfare, and recreation. These horses, of European origin, were likely acquired through the Ute’s extensive trade networks – perhaps even prior to their direct contact with early Spanish colonists of the region. Quick mastery of the horse gave the Utes great power and influence and became synonymous with Ute culture. The horse’s return to the American West was also a harbinger of the crushing injustice that was about to befall the region’s indigenous people; namely, Manifest Destiny’s ruthless march west. The Utes of the White River made their last defiant stands of sovereignty over most of their ancestral homeland in the long shadows of the Grand Hogback.

It is no surprise the modern experience of this place is very different from that of 150 years ago. While the Ute lived on it as a singular, interconnected landscape, the “American Dream” has separated part from parcel. The conveniences of modern civilization block all manner of natural connectivity. It is no longer possible to travel as freely across the landscape as the Ute once did by horseback.

Exploring this landscape today requires creative ways of moving through its divisions. Many of the old routes, once so meaningful and life-sustaining, have been paved over with the combustible rage of daily commutes. Others have been altered into various types of backcountry roads and trails; each saddled with rules and limitations. Today’s ‘pack-bike’ is uniquely suited to traversing all of these surfaces, while the ‘bikepacking’ experience serves to reawaken the memory of the meaningful places along the way. A new horse stands to reconnect this place with its people; a horse that rolls…

• Paved: 18%
• Smooth Gravel: 4%
• Rough Gravel: 20%
• 4×4 Road: 43%
• Singletrack: 15%

Parking: Please do not park at Carbondale’s Nuche Park (the starting point for the route). Nuche Park’s parking lot is extremely small and overnight parking is not allowed. Vehicles may be parked and left for multiple days along most secondary surface streets within the Town of Carbondale (beginning ~0.5 mi North of Nuche Park).

Water Access: Water availability ranges from plentiful and clear on the eastern half of the route to quite limited and dirty on the western half. A few sections require significant water carries, even along the eastern half of the route, where it traverses extended sections of ridgeline with limited water sources. It may be necessary to carry as much as 9 or 10L of water capacity for a few sections during the driest and hottest parts of the summer. Proper water planning is critical to completing the route. The sections of the route where water access is most limited are as follows:

• Arbaney-Kittle Trail climb to Big Woody Creek stream crossing: These miles are arduous (involving several lengthy uphill hike-a-bikes), possibly very hot, along a ridgeline, with no water available for 16+ miles and 4500′ of elevation gain. This section may be the crux of the entire route. See ‘Optional Bypasses’ for an easier alternative.
• Aspen Mountain Summer Rd. to Taylor Lakes via Richmond Ridge: Be sure to leave Aspen with plenty of water. A big climb lies directly ahead, with many miles of weather-exposed high alpine ridgeline to follow. Depending on recent snowmelt and rainfall, there may be no water available until the south side of Taylor Pass (~17 miles and ~6,000′ of elevation gain from here). See ‘Optional Bypasses’ for an easier alternative.
• Crooked Creek (West of Spruce Mountain) to Rifle resupply: In late summer and early fall, drinkable water may be non-existent between Crooked Creek and Rifle (a distance of 42 miles with 2,300’ of challenging climbing in between). The safe plan is to fill up at Crooked Creek with enough water to reach Rifle.
• Rifle resupply to Meeker resupply: You can count on this being the longest, driest, and hottest section of the route. From late summer through fall, there may be no drinkable water available along this 63-mile stretch, featuring 6800’ of climbing. The safe plan is to fill up in Rifle with enough water to reach Meeker, or see ‘Optional Bypasses’ for an easier alternative.

Resupply: Food resupply is plentiful with seven sizeable towns and several other food resupply possibilities directly on, or a few miles off, the route. Many riders will never need to carry more than two days of food between most of the resupply points on the route. The longest distance between resupply points is between Meeker and Glenwood Springs, a distance of 107 miles with nearly 12,500 feet of climbing in between. Some riders may choose to carry 3–4 days of food for that section.

Camping: Most of the route traverses public land managed by the federal government (US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management). Dispersed camping options are abundant throughout those sections of the route. Other sections utilize public roads bordered by private land. Do not trespass or camp on private land. The best way to know if you are on private, or public, land is to use an app such as OnX Maps (shows land ownership in reference to your location) in conjunction with signage on the ground. Please be aware, there are two extended sections of private land on the western half of the route where camping is not allowed (or options are extremely limited). They are as follows:

• The area between the US Forest Service boundary near the Cayton Guard Station and JQS Road north of Rifle (roughly 30 miles) is entirely private land, characterized by working cattle ranches mixed with oil and gas production. Do not plan to camp or sleep within this section of the route. These miles are relatively fast. Lodging is available in Rifle and dispersed camping is possible along JQS Road just north of town.
• The ~57 miles between Piceance Creek (north of Rifle), and the Milk Creek Memorial (northeast of Meeker) follow public roads bordered by private property (mostly). Trespassing is taken very seriously in this region. Do not camp or sleep on private land. These miles all pass quickly on good gravel and/or paved roads. There are camping and lodging options in Meeker if needed.
• It is safe to assume you should not camp along any of the paved sections of the route. The vast majority of those miles are bordered by private land.

Permits: There are no permits or fees required to ride the route.

Dangerous Road Sections:

• The three miles of the route that utilize Airport Road (directly east of Rifle) has minimal shoulder and fast-moving traffic. Ride with extreme caution.
• State Highway 13 (north of Rifle) is not suitable for cycling beyond where the route turns west onto the JQS Road turnoff. Shoulders are minimal to non-existent in places, and vehicle traffic moves extremely fast and includes many large trucks. See ‘Optional Bypasses’ for a safer alternative should you choose to skip the JQS/Roan section.
• Riding your bike along I-70 between Canyon Creek and West Glenwood Springs is not a viable way to shortcut the route. It is neither legal nor compatible with life. You may be able to take a public bus (rfta.com), ride-share service, or hitch a ride.

Optional Bypasses (easier alternatives to the toughest parts of the route):

Those seeking a quicker, and somewhat less arduous experience may be interested to know that several (but not all) of the route’s most difficult sections may be easily bypassed using semi-adjacent sections of paved/gravel trails and roads. These are noted on the GPS track and below:

• Arbaney-Kittle Bypass: This arduous ridgeline trail may be optionally bypassed by taking the Rio Grande Trail (paved multi-use path) east, turning left onto Woody Creek Rd. (part paved, part gravel), and reconnecting with the route at the Tin Cup trail in Lenado.
• Richmond Ridge Bypass: This difficult section of the route up Aspen Mountain and across Richmond Ridge (~17 miles with ~6,000 feet of climbing) may be optionally bypassed on an easier route by climbing Castle Creek Rd. (paved) west of Aspen, then climbing Express Creek Rd. (steep, loose, 4×4 road) to reconnect with the route at the top of Taylor Pass. Express Creek Rd. is a difficult climb, but not nearly as difficult as Aspen Mountain and Richmond Ridge. This bypass comes with the benefit of plenty of access to water along Castle Creek Rd.
• Deer Creek Bypass: If needed, the Deer Creek Trail can be optionally bypassed by descending Brush Creek Road, then taking any one of a number of roads or trails into Crested Butte, where one can easily reconnect with the route.
• Raggeds Bypass: The Raggeds Trail is one of the most spectacularly beautiful sections of the route. It is also deceptively difficult and time-consuming. This section can be bypassed very quickly by descending McClure Pass (Hwy 133) and reconnecting with the route at County Rd. 265.
• Spruce Mountain Bypass: The climb up and over Spruce Mountain involves 2.5 miles of extremely steep and loose uphill hike-a-bike. The view from the top is worth it! But, this section can be easily bypassed by simply continuing west on Buzzard Divide Rd. until it reconnects with the route at Crooked Creek.
• JQS/Roan Bypass: The nearly 4,000’ climb up JQS Road and traverse of the Roan Plateau can be optionally bypassed by turning right off of State Highway 13, onto State Highway 325 (towards Rifle Gap), then left onto County Road 252 to Meeker (mostly gravel). This saves many thousand feet of climbing and gets you to Meeker much quicker.

• Go directly to the main route on Ride With GPS.
  For more information and great photography, check out the route page on Matt’s website, Move | Forward | Go: https://mofogo.org/rollinghorse
• The route also has an Instagram: @rollinghorse

The Rolling Horse bikepacking route was developed and is Stewarded by Matt Annabel.

A bit about Matt: I am a proud husband, father to two young children, and an active member of the Carbondale, Colorado community. I went on my first bikepacking tour in 2019 and was immediately hooked. Since then, I have explored many published and unpublished multi-day routes in the Rocky Mountains and desert southwest. The Colorado Trail is my favorite so far. In 2022, at the youthful age of 47, I discovered my passion for ultra-endurance bikepack racing, which I have pursued wholeheartedly ever since. Friendships, inspiration, and lessons learned from others along the way have had a seismic impact on my life. I often write about these experiences at my personal blog site mofogo.org. This is the first route I’ve created for the purpose of publishing for others. I have created dozens of bikepacking and day ride routes to ride myself or with friends, including several shorter routes that comprised the scouting missions for the full Rolling Horse route.

This route traverses the traditional lands of the Ute.